The Runway Reviewed: Jeremy Scott Looks to the Middle East, Anna Sui to Laurel Canyon
Plus: More Tevas at GANT by Michael Bastian and satin whimsy at Proenza Schoeler
Jeremy Scott’s best look was a light blue python tracksuit, accessorized with matching ballcap and shiny workboots, a look he repeated for women in a cute shirtdress, riding cap, and thigh-high boots — if Scott superfans Rihanna and A$AP Rocky ever make a video for “Cockiness,” can we recommend the duo wear these matching outfits? Scott’s general palette, though, was baroque gold and black, with sheer frocks in American dollar prints and a black mesh crop top and dress dangling with gilded machine-gun charms. So, was he making a comment on the American relationship with the Middle East, or was he just gunning to outfit MIA’s “Bad Girls” video remake? It was unclear, but a gold, leopard-print burqa was ill-advised appropriation, and marred an otherwise fun collection.
The designer based this season on Mireille Cervenka, sadly deceased sister of X’s Exene and wife to Teenage Jesus and the Jerks bassist Gordon Stevenson, so there was an underlying theme of late ’70s Laurel Canyon punk: loose, embroidered, almost-hippie frocks scuzzed up with ripped fishnets and blue ripped fishnet and blue-and-violet wigs. The most distinct LA looks blended tartan plaid (bondage pants, an oversized jacket) with crimson florals, leather skirts with denim moto jackets, and a tough cap that called to mind navy hats, cats, and a bustier — the perfect accessory for a woman whose nickname was Spike.
GANT BY MICHAEL BASTIAN
Oh, you thought Tevas were relegated to the Patrik Ervell collection? Think again, and look at this fucking poncho: the manliest of dudes is going to be looking hella rock-climber in Spring 2013 if they’re seeing Bastian’s looks for the Swedish heritage collection. But again we point out that if you’re showing toes in rubber foam in the city, you better back it up with cojones.
Chloe Sevigny is a bigtime fan, and it’s like this collection almost channeled her signature quirks: patchwork leather looks that weren’t pretty, exactly, but made bold statements about craft and, you know, the versatility of leather. Elsewhere, they went for whimsy, showing a satin dress with a digital silkscreen of families at a public pool, augmented by orange dots and grommets up the hem, a look repeated with a crowd shot like they’ve been doing the summer festival circuit, Coachella or Guy Debord at least.