Julianne Escobedo Shepherd
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The Runway Reviewed: Jeremy Scott Looks to the Middle East, Anna Sui to Laurel Canyon
JEREMY SCOTTJeremy Scott's best look was a light blue python tracksuit, accessorized with matching ballcap and shiny workboots, a look he repeated for women in a cute shirtdress, riding cap, and thigh-high boots — if Scott superfans Rihanna and A$AP Rocky ever make a video for "Cockiness," can we recommend the duo wear these matching outfits? Scott's general palette, though, was baroque gold and black, with sheer frocks in American dollar prints and a black mesh crop top and dress dangling with gilded machine-gun charms. So, was he making a comment on the American relationship with the Middle East, or was he just gunning to outfit MIA's "Bad Girls" video remake?
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The Runway Reviewed: Betsey Johnson's Indomitable Splits, Duckie Brown's Kentucky Twists, William Okpo's Daytime Hips
BETSEY JOHNSON The beloved downtown designer turned 70 this year, and, after a year in which her parent company shuttered all her retail stores, presented her runway show last night. In true Betsey style, though, there was nothing mournful about it: models handed out champagne and Betsey-pink cupcakes, and she presented one of the most joyous, wonderfully campy shows of her life, drawing on her archival prints (the ever-beloved cherry dress!), repeating popular old standbys (Drescher leopard!) and showing costume-cute looks that conveyed the styles of mafia moll, stripper, queen, fairy godsister, real housewife, gold digger, drag queen, Studio 54 regular, and general wildchild. It was a complete retrospective of her work but ever-current, and she was joined by longtime friend Cyndi Lauper, who certainly wore some of Johnson's crinoline petticoat skirts in her day.
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The Runway Reviewed: Marc Jacobs Marries Megan Draper To 'Rosemary's Baby,' Rodarte Sweats 'Game Of Thrones'
MARC JACOBS The tattooed fashion fave gave Nico realness for his higher-end line, echoing this season's '60s silhouettes with horizontal black and white stripes, blown-out houndstooth and mod clown collars in chocolate satin. It's Rosemary's Baby-meets-Megan Draper (latter being this season's biggest fashion muse) with a little rock'n'roll, pointy-toed, (early) Nick Cave-worthy bootie tossed in for good measure. RODARTE Die Antwoord played Alex Wang's party, but is it possible the Mulleavy sisters have been taken by Yo-Landi Visser's alien sex fiend steez as well? Rodarte dressed up their signature hyper-feminine shapes with contrasting ivy-print paneling and a chainmail cut-out frock that proves they've been sweating "Game of Thrones," too.
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The Runway Reviewed: Asher Levine's Revenge On The Sith, Patrik Ervell's Tevas Quandaries
ASHER LEVINE Twenty-four-year-old Levine is known for his avant eye — he's outfitted some of pop's most outre, including Gaga and Will.i.am — but his menswear line is still excessively wearable, particularly considering this season he seemed to channel the Rebel Alliance's Admiral Ackbar. A crimson pajama suit and flowing kimono jacket were accessorized with exoskeleton skull caps and work boots, while he reinvented batik on blazers and androgynous maxi-dresses into a visual representation of the milky way, rather than something your hippie aunt does to all her art smocks. But the most striking look was that of a tyrannical alien general: a fleshy amphibious headpiece and shoulder-padded cape over an ink-black worksuit and, presumably, a very scary laser gun beneath. It's fantasy at its finest.
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The Runway Reviewed: Alexander Wang Channels C-3PO, Robert Geller Goes Bonkers For Bauhaus
ROBERT GELLER Hands down the best menswear show we've seen all week, Robert Geller drew on his love for oi and post-punk as a basis for a collection that might fit at the London Rough Trade shop in 1986. Soundtracked by British punk band Blitz's The Killing Dream album — the album on which they dropped their early oi roots for an artier sound — Geller presented geometric layering of linen shorts and suede tops, natty barber socks, Indian-inspired bead necklaces, and the most excellent Oskar hat in wool felt that made us want to go home and listen to Depeche Mode because, outfit Dave Gahan in this line already. Oh, and all the leathered looks — a cropped biker vest, zippered trousers — were actually manufactured in new-wave neoprene, giving the whole thing a sheen of Duckie in a wet suit.
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The Runway Reviewed: Hood By Air's Denim Night Skirts, SUNO's Cordless Phone Prints, And The Wake Left By Amber Rose
HOOD BY AIR For several years, Hood by Air (run by Ghe20 Gothik's $hayne Oliver) has been influencing the direction of forward-thinking club kids (and well-funded runway designers like Rick Owens by proxy.) Long before every street-style website offered a three-inch-tall flatform shoe, HBA was making custom platform Timberlands for Maluca; long before Rihanna rocked revitalized BOY London club kid gear, HBA was reimagining their brass-plate caps. Last year, their line of Classic tees hijacked the Paramount Pictures logo and ended up on the back of A$AP Rocky.
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The Runway Reviewed: SPIN Assesses the First Flurry of Fashion Week '12 Fabulosity
RACHEL COMEY A big-time favorite of Best Coast's Bethany Cosentino, it's not hard to envision the two existing in some kind of symbiotic metaspace for this collection, particularly considering the silken cut-out frocks and '60s-inspired crop tops in chartreuse and pink — Bethany's all about her Cardio Barre'd belly these days, after all. From the basics, Comey fluffed her traditional super-feminine silhouette with a spring freshness, showing clean white tunics that could transition from a beach jaunt to an early dinner on the Upper East Side, as well as a series of not-as-successful shapeless shifts outlined in ruffles. As ever, though, the best thing about Comey's show was the footwear: a stunning, isosceles-shaped peeptoe sandal in metallic blue patent leather; a chic nude ankle bootie.
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Last Night: SPIN Braves Fashion's Night Out 2012
Fashion's Night Out is something like Fashion Week's grand entrance — like Fashion Week throwing open the front door in a hot pink feather boa yelling, "I'm heeeerrre!" A whole stretch of the city transforms into a celebration of music, champagne, and shopping, and the masses come out in their Sunday best to partake in the event Vogue's Anna Wintour invented in 2009 to help revive a then-flagging fashion economy. We started our evening at the SoHo Prada store to see Chairlift perform, though we got their early and our wait was punctuated by free bags of bacon-popcorn (yes, popcorn with bacon in it) and a R&B and rap-heavy playlist — the Dream's "Shawty is Da Shit" (the Fabolous remix!), "Aston Martin Music," Erykah's "Window Seat," "Mercy" and, amazingly, "Rooster in My Rari" by Waka Flocka Flame.
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SPIN's Guide to Fashion Night Out 2012
Fashion's Night Out takes over New York tonight, and it can be a little daunting to navigate the jam-packed streets of Soho. It's best to stick to the music instead: at the MAC Store (506 Broadway), SPIN cover star Azealia Banks will be unveiling her new lipstick, Yung Rapunxel (a deep plum that's neutral enough for a wide range of skin tones). Over at the Prada store (575 Broadway), Chairlift will be setting up at the foot of the Rem Koolhaus-designed slope for a sparkling performance among this season's Mary Tyler Moore Show pantsuits.
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Nicki Minaj's Perfume Alter Ego Is a Busty Femmebot
There's surely no one to thank but Roman for this complete transformation of Nicki Minaj's eau de parfum alter ego into miniature femmebot, complete with gilded face mask, plastic pink wig with blunt bangs and, remarkably, breasts and cleavage. Please Roman, tell us the perfume squirts out the breastplate like an Austin Powers villain or a Katy Perry video.
