The Runway Reviewed: SPIN Assesses the First Flurry of Fashion Week ’12 Fabulosity
A few thoughts from Wednesday and Thursday, including looks at Rachel Comey, Nicholas K, Duckie Brown and Creatures Of The Wind
A big-time favorite of Best Coast’s Bethany Cosentino, it’s not hard to envision the two existing in some kind of symbiotic metaspace for this collection, particularly considering the silken cut-out frocks and ’60s-inspired crop tops in chartreuse and pink — Bethany’s all about her Cardio Barre’d belly these days, after all. From the basics, Comey fluffed her traditional super-feminine silhouette with a spring freshness, showing clean white tunics that could transition from a beach jaunt to an early dinner on the Upper East Side, as well as a series of not-as-successful shapeless shifts outlined in ruffles. As ever, though, the best thing about Comey’s show was the footwear: a stunning, isosceles-shaped peeptoe sandal in metallic blue patent leather; a chic nude ankle bootie. For one of the best looks, she put a tan leather cut-out flat sandal with a late-’60s quarter-sleeve overcoat in a periwinkle floral pattern, plus pastel-striped cropped top and bikini bottoms: total Best Coast apres-show bonfire attire.
CREATURES OF THE WIND
If anyone can make a Pepto-pink trouser look cool, it’s these guys, who took Jacqueline Susann to St. Marks Place with a single loose-fitting, diamond-pattern tuxedo pant embellished with double-buckle belt. It’s wrong on paper, but paired with a white button-down and olive green and black mary janes, something went right with these Pink Flamingos. That wasn’t the whole story designers Shane Gabier and Chris Peters told, but the rest of the line was imbued with similar irreverence that worked when it seemed like it shouldn’t: pointy-toed patent oxfords with straps, an ankle-length A-line frock in mushy-pea green, a sheer yellow-gold dress with butterfly appliques in that same shade of pepto bismol. For a label using CFDA/Vogue fashion fund, Creatures of the Wind does not GAF in the best way, incorporating high camp into high fashion, and selecting a palette that gave the color wheel a slight dropkick. Adore! May they soldier on forever with a blank check.
MNDR much? This label showed oversized, round, white glasses that mimicked the pop singer’s signature look, albeit a bit more streamlined, showing them with white-girl du rags, boho silk jumpsuits and nomadic scarves that gave the collection an overall Saharan explorer vibe. The menswear fared better than the womenswear, with more relaxed layering and cool-guy sweatsuits, but mostly we’re just gunning for MNDR to be in their next show because, right?
This awesome menswear line gave us the most amazing punk-tribal floral top that looks like the king bee of the Neurosis concert. The rest of the collection is similarly punk inspired: oversized tartan trousers, streamlined black bombers, double denim with reimagined leather bondage straps-slash-suspenders that double as leashes. There’s a bit of 1930s gangster in there, too — the oversized suits in pastels come with their own suspender, but this time it looks like the type of shaving strap that might get your throat cut if you went to the wrong barber. Also: are they giving us a little bit of Drop the Lime realness, perchance? Enter the night indeed.